Tuesday, June 23, 2009

The Truth About Getting Better Gas Mileage

Gas prices have been ridiculous for several years now, and we have to do all we can to get more miles out of a gallon of gas. There's a lot of information out there about things you can do to get better gas mileage. Some of the information is true, some is sketchy...and today, we're going to separate out the facts from the fiction about gas mileage and what you can do to make your tank of gas go further.



The Number One thing you can do to get better gas mileage is to drive the speed limit. None of the studies out there disputes this, and it's one of the few items that all the "experts" agree on! Most of the posted speed limits on freeways would let you run about 60-65 miles per hour. That's a nice range-because once you go over the 60 mph limt, you start throwing money out the gas tank. For every 5 miles per hour over 60 mph, you are paying 10% extra per gallon! For example, if gas in your area costs $2.50/gallon, you are spending an extra 25 cents on your gas for EVERY 5 miles per hour over 60 mph. That would equal an extra 50 cents per gallon if you're going 70 miles per hour and an extra $1.00 per gallon if you're going at the dangerous and unnecessary speed of 80 miles per hour!



Another big item to extend your gas dollar is to avoid excessive idling. You are using gas when your vehicle is idling, but you are getting 0 miles to the gallon. Avoid any kind of drive-thru windows with long lines. Park the vehicle and walk inside the bank, pharmacy, fast-food, or other business. If you must sit in a long line, turn off your engine. Now, don't get silly with this one - you don't need to stop your engine and restart it within one minute, but you do need to avoid idling for longer periods of time and wasting your gas. Turn off the engine while you're waiting in your car for friends, family or co-workers. You can stretch your gas dollar by combining errands. Stop-and-go driving is wasteful to your gas mileage, but your engine runs more efficiently when it's warm...so combining several short trips into one will actually help you save money on gas. Starting the engine from cold uses more gas, and it also produces more pollutants - so plan your trips carefully. Try to find less congested routes, or run errands when there are fewer people on the roads so you can avoid the stop-and-go conditions that waste your gas.



Avoid carrying a lot of extra, heavy items in your vehicle. An extra 100 pounds in your vehicle could reduce your miles per gallon by 1-2 percent. (The percentage in reduced mileage is based on the relation of the extra weight to the vehicle's weight - so smaller cars are affected even more than larger vehicles.)



Being aware of aerodynamics can help your gas dollar go further:



A loaded roof rack will decrease your miles per gallon by 5 percent. Reduce the aerodynamic drag by moving the items to the inside of the vehicle. Try to keep the roof clear, and use the roof rack only when you're hauling something from one place to another.



If you drive a truck, install a bed cover to help with the aerodynamics. Air will rush over the cover instead of collecting in the bed and creating drag on your vehicle.



Window down and A/C off, or A/C on and window up - which is best for gas mileage? At slower speeds, it doesn't really make a difference (so you might as well roll up the window and turn on the A/C and be comfortable). At freeway speeds, driving with the window down creates a lot of drag on the vehicle - so roll it up and turn on the A/C. Now, if it's not too hot and you don't really need the A/C, don't use it - it does put extra stain on the engine to run the compressor. If it's cool enough, you can open the vents instead...but if it's hot, you don't have to feel bad about using too much gas when you run the A/C - because the amount of gas used is not very significant.



Does it make a difference if you run the A/C on low or on high? No - the fan runs on electric power, so it makes no difference if you run it on low or at full blast....but you can help out by trying to park in a shady area, or leave the roof or windows cracked slightly to help reduce your A/C's load when you start up again.

Regular vehicle maintenance items not only help your vehicle to have a longer life, and save you money on costly repairs, but also can help you to get better gas mileage. Each item on it's own offers a slight degree of economy on your gas mileage, but all together - they can up your miles per gallon by a pretty good margin!

Keep your tires properly inflated (don't look at the number on the tire itself - the proper tire pressure for your vehicle is listed on the sticker inside the door jamb, and in your owner's manual. Under-inflated tires equal lower gas mileage, so you'll save between about 1 - 3% on every gallon of gas by keeping the tires inflated correctly.

Use the right motor oil. It's usually marked right on the engine oil cap. If your engine needs 5W-30 oil, and you put 10W-30 in it instead, you will lower your gas mileage by 1-2%.


Check your spark plugs and ignition wires. Dirty or worn spark plugs can cause mis-firing, which will waste fuel. Have a mechanic inspect the vehicle to be sure all the cylinders are firing properly - otherwise you'll have some cylinders using more gas because they have to work harder, and some cylinders throwing off wasted gas out the exhaust. Having these parts working correctly can have a significant impact on your gas mileage.

Have your oxygen sensor evaluated. It affects how much gas is sent to the engine, so if it's not working properly, you'll be wasting gas (in addition to ruining your catalytic converter, which is VERY expensive to fix, and will cause your vehicle to fail the emissions test). Fixing a faulty oxygen sensor can improve gas mileage up to 40%.

Does a clogged air filter result in lower miles per gallon? It depends. On 1980 and newer models, replacing a dirty air filter doesn't really improve gas mileage, but it does improve acceleration. Replacing clogged air filters on olders cars with carbureted engines does improve fuel economy.

A few more tips to help make your gas dollar go further:

*Use the octane level you need. Your owner's manual recommends the most effective octane level for your vehicle - and for most vehicles, regular octane is the recommended type of gas. Using a higher octane gas than what's recommended is a waste of money

*Do you get more for your gas dollar if you fill up early in the morning or late at night, when gas is cooler, and therefore, more dense? No. The fuel is stored underground (not in the pump itself), and is pretty much at an even temperature all the time.

*Is the gas mileage better or worse when you completely fill the tank? Not a big issue on this one. True, the tankful of gas weighs around 100 pounds or so (more on larger vehicles with bigger tanks), but this is not a significant amount of weight comparted with the weight of the vehicle (generally 2,500 - 4,000 pounds). Just don't go carrying a lot of extra, heavy things to add to the weight your vehicle is already carrying.

*Comparison shop. Take note of the gas stations around you - they can vary pretty widely even within a short distance of one another. Check out "lowest gas prices" on the web...you can save quite a bit of money on your gas.

*Check to make sure your gas cap is on tightly. You don't want to let that gas evaporate!


*Don't drive "aggresively". Jackrabbit starts will waste your gas and make life hard for your vehicle. Continuous acceleration and braking will lower your gas mileage, so try to take it slow and ease up to the starts and stops. If you look up the road just a bit, you can almost always manage to keep the vehicle rolling by slowing down as you approach traffice signals...or at least, you can coast up to the stops. And then accelerate lightly once you start to move again. Really, you're not going to get where you're going by taking off like you've just robbed a bank - you're only going to waste gas...and wear out your vehicle's transmission.

THINK about your foot on that gas pedal. When you're pushing down hard, you're running more gas through the engine...so push it down more gently and make your vehicle to that extra mile on your tank of gas.

And remember to call on Varela Mobile Mechanic Service to check your vehicle to be sure everything is in optimal working condition. We'll save you gas money, and help to prevent more costly repairs, by keeping your vehicle in good running shape!

Happy driving....

Friday, May 15, 2009

Check Your Vehicle's Fluid Levels

Help to keep your car in good operating condition by checking the fluid levels. It's really pretty easy to do, and it will alert you to conditions that may need mechanical assistance before your vehicle's parts reach "critical" status. You can do some very serious damage to your car, truck or van by running it's fluid levels to empty! Following is your check list - it'll only take you about five minutes to do, and it really will help to extend the life of your vehicle. Grab some paper towels or an old rag - this part is a little messy.

Check in the morning before starting the vehicle, or when the engine is "cold":

1.) Engine Oil. Find the dipstick. It's usually located in the front part of the car, near the radiator. On most cars, it's to the right of the oil cap, and may be marked "Engine Oil". Pull out the dipstick, and wipe it clean (just a couple of long strokes will do). While it's clean, look at the markings: you'll see a "Min" line and a "Max" line. Re-insert the dipstick all the way, and take it out to see where your vehicle's oil level is. If it's below the "Min" line, add oil one quart at a time (re-checking the dipstick between oil additions), but don't overfill it!
Don't forget to have your oil and filter changed about every three-four months or 3,000-4,000 miles to keep your engine in top-running performance. If you don't change the oil often enough, you will eventually be getting a lot of blow-by, and then soot and deposits will clog up the works, leading to loss of power, increased emissions and lower gas mileage.

2.) Radiator (Older cars, pre-70's). Be sure the car is "cold"! Remove the radiator cap and look inside. If the water/anti-freeze level isn't up to the top, add equal parts water and anti-freeze to fill it (it needs to be full to the top). Check to be sure you put the cap back on correctly.

3.) Coolant overflow bottle (check this instead of the radiator on cars manufactured after 1970). The coolant overflow bottle is a white plastic reservoir located next to the radiator, with a hose connecting the two. There are marks on the side of the bottle that show full and low levels. If the level of the liquid is below the low marking, you need more coolant. (Note: since the reservoir is white plastic, it can be hard to tell how much coolant is in the bottle - use a flashlight to help you locate the fluid level.) But, you have to be sure not to mix two different types of coolant, because you can damage the radiator! If you want to switch to a different type of coolant, you'll need to have your cooling system drained and flushed before putting in new coolant. Be sure to use the right type of coolant for your vehicle. Don't overfill the bottle. It won't hurt your vehicle if you do overfill the bottle, but its contents will spill over onto your engine and/or the driveway. You don't want to let pets or children around the coolant - most types are poisonous.

4.) Power steering fluid level. The reservoir is usually located on near the engine (up top), near the passenger side and is usually marked. Open the cap - it has a dipstick attached. Wipe and re-insert the dipstick. Check to be sure the level is in between the markings on the dipstick. If you need to add power steering fluid, check to be sure you purchase the right type of power steering fluid for your vehicle.

5.) Brake fluid. The brake fluid reservoir is located on the driver's side of the car, toward the back side of the engine compartment. Newer models have a clear reservoir, so you can simply look at the full- or low- lines on the reservoir to see if you need brake fluid. For non-clear reservoir models, clean the cap with a rag or paper towel before opening it, so dirt won't fall into the reservoir. Some caps screw off, and some pull off (you may need a screwdriver to help you pop off the cap). Open the cap and check the level. There are full- and low- level markings on the side of the reservoir or inside the opening. It needs to be at the full-line. Use a funnel to avoid spills if you need to add brake fluid. Be very careful to not get brake fluid on your paint - it will remove the paint!

Now, go ahead and start your vehicle and let it run for a few minutes. It will need to be "warm" for the last fluid level check. While it's warming up, you can check and add windshield washer fluid.

6.) Windshield washer fluid. Often neglected when checking fluids, but you really don't want to be out of this fluid when you need it! The plastic bottle is usually marked on the cap (and may be marked with a picture of the windshield symbol). Fill it to the top of the fill line with windshield washer fluid. We recommend adding Rain-X windshield treatment products to water or the blue stuff - it really works to make the water just bead right off the windshield! (If you have a van, go to the back window, open the hatch and add windshield washer fluid to that container while you're at it.)

7.) Transmission fluid. If you didn't start your engine already, do it now, because this level is checked while the engine is warm. There is a dipstick to check the transmission fluid level, but it's not in the same place on all vehicles. Check along the left or right side of the engine, down low, and find the dipstick. Take it out and clean it with a rag or paper towel. Check to see where the indicators are marked on the dipstick. Re-insert it (be patient with this one - it doesn't always fit in easily), and then take it out and see where the fluid level is. You are looking for the "warm" reading in this case. If the fluid level is low, be sure to add the right type of transmission fluid for your vehicle. Also, this fluid should be pink, and sort of clear. If it's dark-colored, you need the transmission fluid changed right away, so you won't damage your vechicle. (Note: manual transmissions don't have a dipstick to check the fluid level - you have to crawl under the vehicle to remove the fill plug to check the level. Feel free to call on your mechanic to check the transmission fluid level on a manual transmission vehicle!)

These fluid level checks really are easy to do, and just take a few minutes of your time - but they can save you hundreds or even thousands of dollars in gas cost and repair fees, and doing these simple checks can help you to catch things that need to be repaired before they become more serious and costly. Except the windshield washer fluid, most of these really shouldn't be "used up" over time - so if you are replacing any of the other fluids very often, it's time to have a mechanic take a look, because something is likely starting to fail on your vehicle.

If you are in the North Central Texas area and need your vehicle checked, contact Varela Mobile Mechanic Service. We'll be happy to assist you! You can reach us at 214-991-5776 or by email at varelas06@gmail.com or visit our website: http://www.varela.intuitwebsites.com/

Thank you for reading our post! Happy Trails.....






Thursday, April 23, 2009

Auto Care Tips - Tire Safety

Greetings, and may God bless you!


This month's tips are on Tire Safety. Don't let this very important part of your vehicle go overlooked! Properly checking and maintaing your tires can save you money on gas, save your tires from unnecessary wear and tear, and can help to save your life.

Follow these 10 Tire Safety Mesaures:
  1. Check your tire pressure monthly. Under-inflated tires are the leading cause of tire damage and failure, and they cost you money on gas - up to five cents per gallon.
  2. You can't tell the tire's pressure by just looking at it - you must use the tire pressure guage. The correct amount of tire pressure for your car is listed in your owner's manual, and on the sticker on the door jamb.
  3. Check tire pressure when the car hasn't been driven for at least a few hours and the tires are "cold". When you drive your car, the tires will heat up and you will get an inaccurate reading.
  4. Don't carry a heavier load in your vehicle than necessary. The extra weight will cause your tires to wear out faster.
  5. Rotate your tires every 5,000 - 8,000 miles. Front wheel drives will rotate Front Left to Back Left and Front Right to Back Right, but will criss-cross for Back Left to Front Right and Back Right to Front Left. Rear wheel drives will rotate Back Left to Front Left and Back Right to Front Right and will criss-cross Front Left to Back Right and Front Right to Back Left. Directional Tread Tires are different - they are designed to perform in the direction noted on the sidewall, and are always rotated front to rear only, with no criss-cross, without regard to front - or rear - wheel drive.
  6. Check your tire's treads. Take a penny, and insert it in between the treads (with Lincoln's head toward the tire). If you can see the very top of Lincoln's head, the tread is worn down too far, and your tire needs to be replaced. Also, be sure to check for signs of uneven wear - if your tire is more worn in the center or on the edge, please have a professional check to see if it needs to be replaced.
  7. When it is time to replace tires, check the owner's manual or the sticker on the door jamb for the correct recommendations (tire size and type, etc.) for your vehicle. Different sizes and types of tires work differently, so for maximum safety and performance, you need the correct kind for your vehicle.
  8. When driving in wet weather - slow down. Even with properly maintained tires, your car may still hydroplane if you go through deep enough water that's puddled on the road.
  9. If you feel your car start to hydroplane, don't hit the brakes - just take your foot off the accelerator. For manual transmission, you may need to press the clutch pedal and reduce gear, then re-engage clutch after you regain control of the vehicle.
  10. Keep a safe distance from other drivers - especially when stopping on wet roads. They may not have properly maintained tires, and may not be able to stop as well as needed.

You can visit tiresafety.com for lots more information on tires. Following the above tips, being aware of the other drivers on the road and not following too closely to the car in front of you, along with watching out for unexpected road conditions will help you to be safer on your journeys.

Send us your questions about auto repair of a mechanical nature, and we'll work to answer them on future blogs! Be safe, and watch out for your neighbors on the road. We love you! And if you're in North Texas and want us to check your vehicle, visit our website (varela.intuitwebsites.com) and send us an e-mail message with your name and phone number and we'll get in touch with you!